Coastal Cruising

Driving from Rome to Amalfi along the coast

My feet are always itching for the next big adventure. I recently found the perfect excuse for a quick getaway when my boyfriend's birthday and his purchase of a new motorcycle happened within a few weeks of each other. I suggested we take the bike and get out of town. It was his idea to head to either Sperlonga or Sorrento so I chose Sorrento. The goal was to spend as little money as possible and have a relaxing weekend on the beach. At least, that was my idea. It was only when we finally reached Sorrento that I realized his was slightly different.

The route

We started out early Saturday morning and were fortunate to be on motorcycle versus in the car as there were three accidents and hour+ waits on the highways just to get out of Rome. With the bike we took advantage of the shoulder and cruised right by. We made it to the sea at Anzio by 10:30 and casually cruised down the coast and made our first stop in San Felice Circeo for a refreshment. SFC was beautiful and Piero explained that where many Italian actors and VIPs have their beach homes. I could see why. In the natural park area, it looked just like driving through the Hollywood Hills.

Pit Stop in San Felice Circeo's natural park

We kept on driving and wound through Terracina, Sperlonga and Gaeta, which were each beautiful and buzzing with weekend beach-goers. Before we hit Naples, we decided to get off the coastal ride and get on the autostrada as to avoid crazy Napolitani drivers. By this time we had already been on the bike for a few hours in 95 degree heat and covered in leather jackets, leather boots, giant helmets and a huge backpack. (I would post a picture but instead of looking biker chic like I thought I did, I look like a huge nerd.) I was ready to get to the beach and dive into the water. Little did I know...

When we got to Napoli I was super excited when I noticed Piero detouring and following signs towards Vesuvius. I have always wanted to see it. We started ascending the mountain above the bay of Naples and I couldn't help but ruin the moment by singing a loud and incorrect version of  On Top of Old Smokey. Something about covered in meatballs. It just felt right. We got to the parking lot at the top but didn't see the crater as you have to walk the last 200 meters on foot. We were dripping sweat and my backside was numb from clenching and trying not to fly off the motorcycle all day. (Sorry to scare you, Mom.) So we flew back down Old Smokey and headed towards Sorrento. I couldn't wait.

Bay of Naples

The drive down Vesuvius. (I took most pictures from the back of the bike.)

We arrived on the Sorrentine Peninsula and all I could think about was throwing down by pack and jumping into the sea. However, upon arriving at the hotel, it finally hit me that this wasn't going to happen. Piero's idea of the weekend and my idea faced off. He was thinking of Sorrento, not as the beach paradise like I was, and instead just a place to rest his head - another pit stop - before taking off early Sunday and spending the entire day on the bike again. He didn't even bring a swimsuit!

We spent that evening walking through the center, which was much bigger and way more touristy than I had expected. It was commercialized and pretty busy. I was prepared for something more quaint and calm. We did, however, find the port area very calm and away from the tourist groups and found a great spot for a fresh seafood dinner there.

Looking up towards city center Sorrento from the port

I ate him in one bite

The next day we took off early to cut across the peninsula and hit Positano, Amalfi and then Salerno before jumping on the highway and heading home. I was less than thrilled to put back on my helmet, which had given me a pretty good-size goose egg the day before, but ready to see more of the coast.

Nerd

In the end, I couldn't be happier that we ended up making the extra drive. It was the most beautiful stretch of road I can imagine and the best part is, all of the towns are all so close to each other. The time flew right by. (Of the places I have been to and in terms of beauty, only Sardegna and the island La Maddellena compares.)

The road from Sorrento to Positano

What came next, I really wasn't expecting. I had been to Amalfi before with my mom two years ago, but we never made it to Positano. And Positano took my breath away. It was so incredibly charming and just gorgeous it made you want to stay forever. I must, must, must go back and spend time in Positano. I will now recommend it to anyone and everyone who wants to visit the Amalfi coast. Stay in Positano and visit Sorrento, Amalfi, etc from there. Incredible.

Positano

We (sadly) left Positano and cruised through Traiano and Amalfi without stopping. After Amalfi we took the road that led up the mountainside and stopped in the hilltop town of Ravello. It was cute and quiet with less traffic than below and I insisted on taking a break and eating lunch overlooking the sea. This view explains why. This is also when I decided to call my dad and wish him Happy Father's Day. At 6 a.m. his time. You're welcome, Dad!

After lunch we skipped Salerno and cut back towards Naples through the mountains, which was cool and beautiful. We eventually found our way to the highway and I spend the next four hours talking to myself and dreaming about my next trip to Positano. It was a wonderful weekend overall and I can't complain one bit about being on the bike. It was absolutely gorgeous. And believe me, I know that I am one lucky girl.

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