One of my favorite things about moving to Rome has been the warmth and availability of the people who I have reached out to - experts in their various fields - to help me navigate and explore my new home. I am excited to get to know the local scene, and to be able to share their expertise and their services with my readers and clients. And believe me, these are people who KNOW.
My first meeting was yesterday with olive oil expert Johnny Madge, who invited me to join his tour for the day. Johnny is transplant from England who has been in Italy for 30 years growing his knowledge of Italian food, culture and of course, olive oil. Johnny is a contributor for Slow Food and has appeared with British TV chef Gary Rhodes (as well as several other programs) and owns a wine bar called Gecko 107 in Casperia, where he begins his tour.
To reach Casperia, guests take a train from Rome's center to Fara Sabina, about 45-50 minutes north, where Johnny picks you up in his 9-seater pullmino (little van/bus). I arrived a bit late, as trains and I do not seem to run on the same schedule, and Johnny had taken the other couple on the tour, Laura and Matt, to see a large olive tree before returning to the station to pick me up. Matt and Laura loved the big tree...so that's good. Then all together, we drove through the countryside for about 30 minutes before reaching the charming hilltop town of Casperia. The drive itself was great - the scenery beautiful and a wealth of information from Johnny on all things olives.
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| Casperia |
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| Piazza Umberto I, Casperia |
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| In Casperia, we wound through the snow-filled piazzas of the historic center until we reached the wine bar, which was built into an old cave in the hillside, but is very cozy and inviting. There we taste three olive oils, plus some great wine, and Johnny explains the pressing process of oils and the characteristics of various olives and the oils they produce. |
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| My tour-mates, Laura and Matt, and Johnny |
After Casperia we headed to one of the two favorite lunch spots that Johnny takes his guests. We were welcomed by two large but friendly dogs on the patio of a quiet agriturismo, and walked into a warm and welcoming home, turned restaurant. The large room where we ate was divided into two areas - one with tables and chairs for dining, and the other had couches and a TV where I assumed I would be taking my nap after lunch. It felt like going to your grandma's house for Sunday lunch. It was casual and comfortable, but made you want to eat because you just knew the food was gonna be good. It didn't disappoint.
After tasting more oils and foods featuring oil, we had a sip of a homemade digestivo to warm us up before taking a walk outside among the olive trees. We talked oil a bit more, as well as vegetables and herbs, as they have an abundance of seemingly everything at the agriturismo. Shortly after we jumped back in the van and headed towards the train station to return to Rome.
Overall it was a lovely day and I learned so much about olives, olive oil, olive trees... You name it! As well as being extremely knowledgable about all things olives, Johnny is also very personable and entertaining, which made the day that much better.
For more information on Johnny or his tour, you can contact me or check out his web site
www.johnnymadge.com
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