The lowdown on Cinque Terre, Portofino,
the Amalfi Coast, and other seaside options in Italy
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| Portofino from the ferry |
As a specialty Italy travel consultant it is my job to know the ins and outs of towns throughout Italy. It is my job to help people plan their ideal Italian vacations - most have been waiting their whole lives for this experience. I don't take my responsibility lightly and it is my goal to provide every client with the best possible itinerary and Italian experience.
Having both studied
abroad in Florence as an American college student and then living and working in Italy for six years in tourism, food and wine, I have some unique insight into what has become one of the most requested areas throughout Italy - Cinque Terre.
In each and every initial planning consultation that I did this past year with clients, I at some point heard the words "Cinque Terre" come out of their mouths. Two or three years ago, this was not the case. The growing interest in Cinque Terre is due to several things in my opinion: 1) Rick Steves; and 2) the American college students who visit Cinque Terre and go home to share the beautiful pictures and stories with their families.
As a result of this growing popularity, Cinque Terre is becoming over crowded – to the point where one of the five towns (cinque = five, terre = lands/towns) has tried to limit the number of visitors each day. Because I am decidedly against large crowds, buses, lines, herds of tourists following brightly colored flags, I have decided to write this article to help explain what travel to the Cinque Terre entails. Additionally, I offer alternatives at various price points and with attractions equally, if not more, appealing to those in the red hot Cinque Terre.
Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre,
from Monterosso al Mare to Riomaggiore, are all lovely. The colors of the houses
only enhanced by the constant stream of light reflected off the sea, and the
dramatic downward sweep of the hillside falling gracefully into the water are
just plain beautiful. The ability to take in that scenery as you hike from town
to town, or bounce around by boat is really a novelty that few other places in
the world provide.
That being said, a
few unfortunate characteristics make it a place that I put effort into
avoiding. I guess you could pay me to go, but it is not going to be my favorite
part of the trip. Here’s why. The towns of the Cinque Terre, while stunning,
have done very little to keep up with the growing demands of tourism in terms
of restaurants and hotels. The highest star-level hotel you can ever seem find
is 2 or 3 if you book a year in advance. The price : quality ratio is not
great. If you’re a seasoned traveler looking or 4 or 5-star accommodation with
a view of the sea, morning coffee on your balcony, and great restaurants where
you can spend hours devouring plate upon plate of pesto and linguine, you won’t
find it here.
Another reason, the
towns are too small to fit all of the visitors. Plain and simple, the Cinque
Terre weren’t built to accommodate tens of thousands of tourists each day, they
were build by ingenious Italian fisherman villages who realized they won the
lottery when they figured out live
and build houses on those hills.
The restaurants, for
the most part, only have to caterer to tourists and are not concerned with
return customers. This is something that travelers should keep in mind all over
Italy – the key to finding a good, authentic restaurant is to keep your ears
open and listen for Italian being spoken at the table. If you pop into
somewhere along the main drag of any town in Italy, it will likely have
pictures on the menu and a whole stream of non-Italians pouring in and out.
Stop and ask yourself, does this restaurant truly care about the quality of
their dishes? Well in the CT, you have to do hard work to find restaurants
still catering to the locals.
What you will find
here are lots of students, backpackers, and large group tours with ear pieces
being led on and off the trains and blocking the sidewalks of the teeny tiny
towns. If you find yourself in one of these categories, the inexpensive hotels
and hostels might be perfect for you. The Disneyland-like feel of being herded
along walkways and bumped by tourists from all over the world, may not bother
you. If it’s a cheap day trip from Florence sought only for a quick hike and
glimpse of that beautiful water which you seek, go nuts! Cinque Terre might
just be the place for you.
Trains run
throughout the day from Florence, often stopping in Pisa and/or La Spezia for a
quick train change. It is easy and affordable to get to and from for a day trip
or an overnight. I definitely do not recommend driving as the roads can be
challenging even for the best Italian autistas.
A car hire from Florence can cost anywhere from 290 EUR total for a couple up
to 450 EUR for groups of 12-14. The benefit of drivers is the door-to-door
service, and not worrying about changing trains if you are a wary Italian train
virgin.
Amalfi Coast
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| Positano |
The Cinque Terre is
to backpackers as the Amalfi Coast is to seasoned adult travelers. Situated in
central/southern Italy on a small stretch of coastline just under the bay of
Naples, the Amalfi Coast is comprised of several towns including: Sorrento,
Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, Salerno, and the Island of Capri Obviously the
island is not on the coast, but it is
a commonly tied destination. Some of the smaller towns dotted between the
aforementioned are Praiano, Conca dei Marini, and Marmorata.
The Amalfi Coast is
one of similar sites and opportunities in the Cinque Terre, but for the
traveler who is willing to spend more on lovely hotel rooms, car services, and
great meals. The towns slope into the sea as the Cinque Terre towns do, and
there is a hike to beat all hikes high up on the ridgeline called Il Sentiero
degli Dei, or path of the gods.
The Amalfi Coast
towns are also larger than the Cinque Terre towns giving you more options for
wandering, getting lost, shopping, dining and relaxing. There are more services
such as spas, cooking classes, tours, gardens and villas to explore, not to
mention day trips such as the ruins of Pompei, or mozzarella making days on the
farm.
The hotels here can
be pricey and the towns can get busy during the high summer season (June –
August), but this is an experience that will nestle right into your
heartstrings and give you that lovely, longing tug for the rest of your life.
Alternatives
As the Cinque Terre
have become overcrowded, and the Amalfi Coast is not just an easy day trip
along the popular 10-day Rome – Florence – Venice vacation, I have been seeking
out other options to offer my clients. There are some real gems here, so get
your passports ready.
Santa Margherita Ligure & Portofino
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| Santa Margherita |
Sure we have all
heard of Portofino, but what do you really know about it? And what in the world
is Santa Margherita, you might wonder? Well this is the best and closest
alternative for those who had their heart set on Cinque Terre (sorry for
crushing your dreams! I gotta keep it real).
Located only 40
miles north of the Cinque Terre, taking the same train you would take from
Florence, you are heading to the heart of the Italian Riviera and closer to the
exciting town of Genoa (Genova).
The train stops in
Santa Margherita Ligure, which is the gateway to Portofino, and is the largest
of the several small towns set on a little peninsula. Santa Margherita offers
lots of options for nice, comfortable accommodations on the sea and more
affordable Airbnb rentals. There are loads of restaurants offering incredible
local specialties such as focaccia alla genovese
(thick yummy focaccia bread with local toppings – my favorite is the pesto),
and delicious seafood meals. My Florentine food expert friend and I visited
last June and ate one of the best meals of the summer at an unassuming,
unadorned little local spot called Ristorante da U Batti. I will make
pilgrimages to that restaurant for the rest of my life for their grilled scampi
and best ever in history panna cotta.
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| Hiking trail system |
Not only is the
restaurant and shopping scene on point, but transportation to neighboring towns
is easy and fun. The first thing I did was to hike the peninsula. I am a huge
fan on strapping on my sporty shoes and setting out on foot. Take some cash,
camera, ID, sunglasses and what is stopping you from conquering the day? Niente. The town’s website and the
hotels are great about information on the hiking trails. You can hike short
trails or long ones stretching the entire length of the peninsula and giving
you 360-degree views. During my hike, my friend and I didn’t see another person
on the trails. We would through olive groves, past charming churches, through
fields of flowers – always following the clearly marked signage – and we didn’t
brush elbows with anyone. It was June, lest I remind you. It was remarkable.
Portofino is
reachable from Santa Margherita by ferry, hike, taxi, or bus. This is the uber-glam
village where the rich and famous park their mega yachts for the day. Of course
I had to get there early and get a prime time seat for lunch. I over paid for
white wine and seafood, but when you’re in the middle of that mix, you just
don’t care. It was lovely and slightly magical.
Other towns and
sites that you can easily reach by boat, trail or train: Rapallo, Paraggi,
Abbey of San Fruttuoso, Camogli – the incredibly charming fishing village. Plus
Genoa, one of the most important cities in northern Italy has an incredible
history, wonderful sites, and delicious food scene that make it a natural next
step on your journey.
The food, the
people, the mix of simple and glamorous, and the ease of travel and transportation
make this a top choice for people wanting the Cinque Terre experience but with
a little more luxury, authenticity, and privacy.
Castiglioncello al Mare
Another easy trip
from Florence by train is Castiglioncello al Mare. This small, quiet and very
charming seaside town provides plenty of quaint accommodation options for
people wanting some beach time, good food, and “me time” away from the hustle
and bustle of the cities. South of Pisa and Livorno on the Tuscan coast, this
is one of the towns that Florentines like to keep a secret. While most of the
“who’s who” of Florence has houses at Forte dei Marmi, those looking for even
less of a “scene” prefer the quiet streets and down-to-earth prices of
Castiglioncello.
There’s not a lot of
hiking, no great ferry options, and not many 4 or 5-start hotels. Instead there
are quiet B&Bs, apartment rentals on the water, and local restaurants
serving up good food at realistic prices. This is a great place to enjoy a good
book and a bottle of wine.
Sardegna (Sardinia)
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For those looking for the clearest water
and the most stunning scenery, Sardegna has the best of the best in all of Italy. You’ll
know it as the little island just south of Corsica in the middle of the
Tyrrhenian Sea. I know it as paradise.
Travelers looking
for dedicated time relaxing on the beach, Sardegna is the place for you. It
takes more time and dedication to reach the island – with either a quick flight
or an adventurous overnight ferry from Pisa/Livorno or the Roma/Civitavecchia
areas. Once you arrive in Sardegna, a car rental is highly recommended in order
to properly explore and get to all of the great sites.
The entire island is
gorgeous and worth visiting, but the northeast section is the most well-known
and sought after. Porto Cervo is known as "billionaires beach" and attracts the
rich and famous each summer. The yachts you will see here are some of the largest
in the world. You can stay in this area too, and without having to spend
billions. Your rental car gives you options to stay at nearby towns and find
affordable hotels or apartment rentals inland.
Another incredible
journey in this area is in the car taking the ferry from Palau to the islands
of La Maddalena and the natural park reserve of Caprera. Sardegna is one of the
most sought after destinations even for Italians. The wild scenery, unique
culture and history, and distinct food and drink make it one of the most
unchanged regions within Italy.
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